I'll be honest, Buenos Aires wasn't the reason for my trip.

Like many travellers heading to Antarctica, I saw Argentina's capital as little more than a gateway to the main event; a city to spend a couple of days in before heading south to one of the most remote places on Earth.

Oh how wrong I was.

After 48 hours of wandering colourful neighbourhoods, eating my body weight in empanadas and steak, and soaking up the city's atmosphere, Buenos Aires quickly became one of the highlights of the journey. If you're lucky enough to have a couple of days here before or after a cruise or expedition, my advice is simple: make the most of them.

First things first: take the open-top bus tour

Whenever I visit a city for the first time, I like to get my bearings quickly, and the open-top sightseeing bus proved to be one of the best decisions I made. With only 48 hours available, it offered the perfect introduction to the city and helped me understand how different each neighbourhood feels.

The tour also highlighted just how much history Buenos Aires has. One stop that was particularly worthwhile was Recoleta Cemetery, the final resting place of Eva Perón. Even if cemeteries aren't normally on your sightseeing list, the elaborate mausoleums, beautiful architecture and fascinating stories make it one of the city's most interesting attractions.

From elegant boulevards and grand architecture to colourful streets and bustling markets, the tour gave me a real sense of just how diverse Buenos Aires is. It also helped me decide where I wanted to spend more time over the next two days.

If you're short on time, I'd highly recommend starting here.

Plaza Dorrego: Tango, beer and people watching

One of my favourite memories came in Plaza Dorrego, located in the heart of the historic San Telmo district. I grabbed a cold beer, found a seat overlooking the square and simply watched the world go by.

Tango dancers performed in front of gathered crowds while musicians provided a soundtrack to the afternoon. Locals chatted over coffee, tourists stopped to watch and the whole square felt alive with energy. There was no rush and no pressure to move on to the next attraction.

Why food lovers need to visit San Telmo Market

As a self-confessed foodie, San Telmo Market was probably my favourite place in the city. If you want to experience authentic Argentine food, this is where you need to go.

The market is packed with food stalls, restaurants and local traders selling everything from freshly grilled meats to pastries, cheeses and local produce. The atmosphere alone is worth visiting for.

But for me, the standout stars were the empanadas. Freshly made, packed with flavour and served piping hot, they quickly became my favourite snack in the city. In fact, I may have ended up returning to the same empanada stand more than once. By the second visit, I'm fairly certain the owner recognised me. I have no regrets.

Of course, Argentina's famous asado culture is also on full display throughout the market, with the smell of grilled meat drifting through the aisles and tempting visitors at every turn. For food lovers, it's impossible not to fall in love with the place.

La Boca: colour, character and local life

La Boca felt completely different from anywhere else I visited during my stay. Known for its brightly painted buildings and vibrant streets, it's one of Buenos Aires' most photographed neighbourhoods, but I found myself enjoying the atmosphere just as much as the scenery.

And while the colourful houses are impressive and you'll find plenty of street performers and photo opportunities, what I enjoyed most was simply sitting back and watching local life unfold around me.

Families gathered together for long lunches, friends met to catch up over food and drinks, and the smell of asado seemed to linger in the air wherever I went. There was a real sense of community and energy that made the neighbourhood feel special.

The steak really is worth the hype

Before arriving in Argentina, I'd heard countless people talk about the steak. Whenever a destination becomes famous for a particular food, there's always a part of me that wonders whether it can really live up to the hype. In this case, it absolutely did.

What I loved most was how unpretentious it was. There were no elaborate presentations or unnecessary flourishes; just a perfectly cooked steak, a generous helping of chips and some greens on the side. It was simple, honest food done exceptionally well.

Washed down with a glass of Argentine red wine, it was one of those meals that reminds you that great food doesn't need to be complicated. The biggest surprise was the price. A meal of that quality would easily have cost three times as much back home in the UK, yet here it felt remarkably affordable.

Buenos Aires isn't a city where meals are squeezed between sightseeing. Food is part of the experience. Meals are longer, conversations last longer and there is a genuine appreciation for taking time to enjoy both.

More than a gateway to Antarctica

For many travellers, Buenos Aires is simply the starting point for an Antarctic expedition or a South American cruise. I completely understand why. In my case, the adventure would continue with HX Expeditions, heading south to one of the most extraordinary destinations on Earth.

But after spending 48 hours here, I'd encourage anyone travelling through the city to arrive a couple of days early if they can. Buenos Aires deserves more than being treated as a stopover. It's a destination packed with culture, incredible food, fascinating history and neighbourhoods that each offer something completely different. And perhaps that's why it surprised me so much.

I arrived expecting a stopover; I left wishing I'd booked longer.

Come for the tango and steak; stay for everything else.

Travel Notes

Stayed: Emperador Hotel Buenos Aires (arranged by HX Expeditions)
Flights: British Airways from London
Next stop: Antarctica with HX Expeditions