Deep in the black-velvet night, with the dark, silent sea all around you, the sky bursts into life – swirling with flashes of emerald-bright green, and whispers of blue, red and violet. Nature’s fireworks! We’ve experienced the northern lights both on land and on cruises, and they steal our breath away every time – but there’s nothing more magical than standing between sea and sky, watching them dance above and below, their colours reflected in the rippling waves.

Also known as the aurora borealis, the northern lights are one of the world’s greatest natural phenomena, visible in Arctic and sub-Arctic nations like Finland, Iceland, Greenland and Canada. But for the ultimate combo of celestial wow-factor, rich culture and mighty scenery of peaks, fjords and wild islands, we can’t get enough of Norway.

Viking history, ancient glaciers, waters teeming with orcas and humpbacks: this Scandi sensation has it all. It’s an amazing cruise destination in every season, whether for a foodie adventure in spring or a sun-kissed sail through the fjords in summer. But if you’ve always dreamed of seeing the northern lights (and who hasn’t?), winter is best – they’re often visible between October and February, though September to April is full of potential too.

Imagine sitting on deck, wrapped up in cosy thermals with a hot drink in hand, and suddenly the sky is popping and pulsing with colour. Incredible! The stars are glorious too, sparkling like diamonds across the clear sky. Honestly, we could stay out here for hours, sharpening our astrophotography skills or floating dreamily as the ship’s astrologer reveals the myths, legends and science behind the spectacle.

Most ships depart from Bergen – dubbed the ‘City of Seven Mountains’ for its cloud-piercing topography – or sail directly from the UK, which is only one day away. When you cross into the Arctic Circle, the greater the chance of the aurora appearing, but every port is packed with daytime discoveries too. Waterfall hikes in Haugesund, a day skiing in Narvikfjellet, husky sledding and snowshoeing in the Lofoten Islands, Alta’s 6,000-year-old rock art – to name but a few.

Meanwhile, the on-board entertainment could include talks by northern lights experts, photography masterclasses, craft workshops and whale watching tours: all great ways to make new friends and connections, especially if you’re travelling solo. One evening, you might be sipping cocktails under a sorbet-pink sunset, when – what’s that?! – a pod of humpbacks appears just a few metres away, dipping into the waves and huffing great spurts of seawater through their blowholes. It’s like you’ve stepped into a real-life episode of Blue Planet.

It’s easy to see why the Vikings revered the northern lights, thinking them to be reflections cast from mighty warriors’ armour – and why the Sámi tribespeople still believe they're lost souls, to be both feared and respected. But the science is arguably even more awe-inspiring: they’re caused by electrically-charged particles from the sun, which are ejected by solar explosions. They’re drawn to the North Pole, where they collide with the Earth’s atmosphere – and all of that energy is released as bright, dancing lights.

It’s all happening 100km over your head, but somehow it feels like you could reach out and touch every whirl, every spiral. Like it’s all just for you, and every action you’ve ever taken has led right to this moment.

Sometimes, the northern lights can be shy: they don’t appear every night, and can be hard to spot in built-up areas. But that’s why we love cruises: there are so few other lights on the sea and coastline, and the on-board experts scour forecasts to see when and where they might be. The aurora often peaks between early evening and 2am, but on a cruise there’s no need to stay up: you can ask for a wake-up call or alarm if they show, so you’ll still get a great night’s sleep if they don’t.

Half thrilling expedition, half rejuvenating holiday, a northern lights cruise around Norway is like nothing else on Earth. We can’t recommend it more for those who want to blend discovery with comfort, to combine daily adventures with genuine relaxation. Whether you’re gazing out at mighty lights, huge humpbacks or towering peaks, it feels like everything’s been super-sized. Like you’re the tiniest speck in the ocean – but also the luckiest, too. 

We recommend exploring Ambassador Cruise Line’s 14-night ‘Norway’s Land of the Northern Lights’ itinerary – which sails direct from the UK, calling at Trondheim, Alta, the Lofoten Islands and more. Cruise Collective members enjoy 10% off all cruises with Ambassador Cruise Line.